Expan Experience: Sailing through the mysterious waters of Antarctica

What lies beyond the Chilean Antarctic territory ? What mysteries do the waters of the Antarctic Peninsula hold? Does a wall of ice represent the end of the world, or are there more treasures to be discovered? There are many questions and enigmas surrounding this remote region of the Earth , geopolitically relevant thanks to the 1959 Antarctic Treaty , but also a tourist destination with life-changing travel experiences .

Eugenio Cox , Partner and Founding Manager of Expan Tours , with decades of experience in the tourism industry , is the protagonist of this new edition of Expan Experience , in which he tells us about his most recent adventure , which he described as a pending item on his bucket list : Sailing through the mysterious waters of Antarctica .

A trip pending

With more than 60 ships from various parts of the world traveling through different areas of the white continent , Antarctic expeditions have acquired a specialized focus, as demonstrated by Silver Sea , one of Royal Caribbean 's brands.

Silver Sea , known for its luxury vessels , also excels in the world of expedition cruises . Unlike conventional cruises, these ships are significantly smaller, accommodating 200 to 300 passengers , allowing for a more intimate and personalized experience. A dedicated team organizes daily excursions , accompanied by informative talks that delve into the region's rich natural and scientific heritage .

The Antarctic cruise season begins in November and runs through April . During this period, ships depart from Puerto Williams , a strategic choice for Royal Caribbean , which is relocating its operations from Ushuaia to this point closer to the Drake Passage . Although Ushuaia has a more developed port infrastructure , Puerto Williams offers a key advantage: the ability to avoid an additional three- to four-hour journey.

" I had Antarctica on my bucket list , I always wanted to go to Antarctica , but I thought it was going to be very difficult. There are two worlds represented there, the military world and the tourist world. In the tourist world, there is increasing demand and prices are high; operating the ships is extremely expensive ."

However, sometimes opportunities arise unexpectedly. In November , a single spot became available for an expedition from the 19th to the 29th of that month, departing from and returning to Puerto Williams . After a timely call from the Silver Sea representative, the words were clear: “Take it or leave it.”

" And I took it ."

The adventure begins in Santiago

It all begins in Santiago , where the Ritz Carlton becomes the epicenter of impeccable organization . On November 18 , the travelers checked in , and that's where the magic begins.

From the very first moment, the level of logistics and planning that Silver Sea offers is evident. With coffee , champagne , and other thoughtful touches, travelers receive an unforgettable welcome while getting all the necessary information for their voyage .

Boarding passes for the next day's charter flight , luggage tags , and general information are received at the hotel.

On the other hand, when you complete your booking , key information such as your shoe size is collected for special boots designed to withstand extreme temperatures and walking on ice . Although they don't have crampons, their design is ideal for these conditions. It's important to note that you can only disembark for excursions wearing these boots .

Upon entering your cabin, you'll find a parka specially designed to withstand low temperatures , perfect for keeping you warm both on board and during disembarkation. Alongside it, you'll find a backpack in the cruise line's colors , a practical touch that highlights the adventurous spirit of the trip.

The organization never rests. The next day, breakfast is perfectly synchronized, and outside , four numbered buses await to transport passengers to the airport . Once there, Silver Sea staff, clearly identified, direct the travelers to the departure lounge and, subsequently, to the Sky Airlines charter plane .

Flights to Antarctica

The flight is destined for Punta Arenas . Upon landing, four DAP Airlines planes are ready to continue the journey. The group, organized by color for greater efficiency, is directed to the next plane in just 50 minutes .

" The journey from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams takes 45 minutes and is a very beautiful flight. As the plane soars through the sky, passengers enjoy breathtaking views of the Strait of Magellan . With luck, clear weather allows you to admire Ushuaia on one side and the fjords on the other, offering a glimpse of the spectacular landscapes that await in Antarctica ."

Upon landing in Puerto Williams , the organization reaches its culmination : the Silver Cloud is docked just 500 meters away, ready to begin an unforgettable experience .

5-star cabins

From the moment you step on board and check in , the magic begins. A bottle of champagne in hand marks the perfect welcome before you head to your cabin , which resembles a luxury suite more than a conventional room.

" Upon entering, an exquisite, spacious, and modern bathroom welcomes you with top-quality amenities and soft towels, while a shower designed for comfort adds a touch of sophistication . The walk-in closet is a dream: spacious, organized, with more than 50 hooks , drawers, space for suitcases, and even an iron ."

The bedroom , with beds that can be configured as singles or doubles , offers mattresses and sheets that guarantee a restful sleep . The space also includes a living area separated by a curtain , ideal for those with different sleep routines , with a sofa that can be converted into a double bed and a television on a stand. You can not only watch movies, news channels, and sports, but also find out the ship's exact position, activity and excursion schedules , and much more.

On the other hand, the private terrace with a table and two chairs is the perfect spot to relax with ocean views . In addition, the ship offers surprisingly fast Wi-Fi , with a basic option for uploading photos to social media, using WhatsApp, and replying to emails , or a premium option for those who need higher speeds.

Everything is luxurious at the Silver Cloud

" One detail that makes all the difference is the personalized service . Each passenger is assigned a 'butler,' an exclusive butler whose mission is to ensure you enjoy your stay to the fullest. They are available to attend to your every need, from coordinating your favorite drinks at the bar to delivering room service directly to your door , whether it's breakfast, lunch, dinner, or any other craving. This level of attention elevates the experience to another level ."

With 230 passengers and 250 crew members , the onboard service reaches an unparalleled level of exclusivity . This ship redefines the concept of hospitality by ensuring that every guest receives personalized and unique attention.

The cuisine is also exceptional. There are no rigid meal times like on conventional cruises . You can enjoy à la carte dishes at any time of day, whether in your cabin , on the deck , or in the restaurants . Options include individual tables for those seeking privacy or communal spaces for those who wish to socialize. All accompanied by premium spirits and impeccable service .

Luxury isn't limited to the cabin. A heated pool, maintained at nearly 30 degrees Celsius, offers a warm retreat even when outside temperatures plummet to -3 degrees Celsius . This space is ideal for relaxing while enjoying the scenery .

Outside the ship, a panoramic observatory becomes the perfect place to start each day. With unparalleled views at sunrise and a tranquil atmosphere, this space is a true sanctuary overlooking the frigid waters of Antarctica .

36 hours through the Drake Passage

The first 36 hours of sailing through the Drake Passage set the pace for this adventure , offering a constant oscillation between calm and chaos . It is in this legendary passage , where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans intertwine under the imposing presence of Cape Horn , that the traveler begins to savor the magnitude of what lies ahead.

One of the greatest surprises about the white continent is the global coordination to protect it. In this corner of the planet, countries, even those with marked political differences , agree on one thing: Antarctica must be preserved. Military bases share the space with strictly regulated tourism , and from the captain to the last crew member, every detail is geared toward minimizing environmental impact .

" An international association of Antarctic tour operators sets rigorous standards that operators must meet, such as limiting landings to a maximum of 100 people per excursion and a total ban on leaving any waste . In addition, itineraries are planned years in advance to ensure that ship routes do not overlap. It's a system reminiscent of slot allocation at airports, where precision and organization are essential ."

The work of conservation

The day after departure, as the ship crossed the Drake Passage, all passengers were summoned to a multifunctional space that serves as both a cinema and a conference room. There, a thorough inspection and disinfection of all clothing intended for excursions is carried out.

Travelers were required to bring every item of clothing—trousers, sweaters, gloves, and so on— for thorough inspection by the expedition team . The goal was to ensure that they did not contain any contaminants , such as seeds or other debris that could pose a risk to local ecosystems .

After inspection, the garments are disinfected and returned to you ready for use . Additionally, each time you disembark, the boots go through an automatic cleaning system , followed by a disinfectant bath before you set foot on dry land.

Activities for all tastes

The ever- changing weather necessitates multiple plans in mind. The expedition team , equipped with flags and communication systems , goes ahead to prepare the routes and ensure there are no hazards such as rockfalls or areas blocked by ice . This meticulous planning ensures that every moment on land is unforgettable.

" At the 33rd hour of navigation, a dense fog covered the view, but suddenly, as if it were a theatrical act, a mountain of ice as majestic as Aconcagua emerged, rising directly from the sea ."

Each night, the expedition leader provides a detailed report on the following day's activities, including possible weather scenarios and instructions for each situation.

" In the morning, the expedition team goes down first to explore the terrain and determine a safe landing spot for the Zodiac boats . Once everything is ready, the passengers are guided to the shore for hikes that vary depending on the geography of the place. Some routes are steeper , while others are flat ."

One of the first sights are the majestic tabular icebergs , similar to the impressive A23a , which stretches for 43 kilometers and holds the title of the world's largest iceberg .

However, the majesty of icebergs comes with a constant reminder of their power. These ice giants are in continuous motion due to the melting of submerged ice, making them unstable and dangerous . The ship's crew is extremely strict about maintaining safe distances to avoid any risky situations, as ice calving can generate dangerous waves . Therefore, observing them from afar becomes a fascinating and safe experience.

Antarctica is a true kingdom of nature

Wildlife is one of Antarctica 's greatest attractions. During hikes , it's common to encounter seals , sea lions , and various penguin species, which capture the attention of visitors.

In addition, seabirds and other creatures complete the picture of a vibrant and unique ecosystem . Every step in this icy territory reveals a new surprise , making exploration an unforgettable experience.

Between activities , the ship sails to new destinations, and there's plenty to see during these voyages. Playful dolphins often accompany the vessel, while whales also make exciting appearances. " Seeing the whales is the most exciting thing there is ."

" Another thing that's incredibly exciting is the ambient noise . It's like a constant rumble of thunder in a storm . All the ice is moving, settling, which produces this impressive noise ."

Often, ships anchor in bays surrounded by enormous mountains that rise from the water into the sky and can reach or even exceed 1,000 meters in height , with colossal icebergs . In these places, nature manifests itself with overwhelming force: the sound of ice , the wind , the snow , and the beauty of clear days.

" I couldn't believe what I was seeing. The colors … You can sit on the terrace and the color is constantly changing. Depending on the angle of the sun's rays , and the location of the iceberg , you see white , intense blue , light blue , pink , yellow , green . It's a marvel ."

The challenge of the Antarctic Peninsula

After 36 hours crossing the imposing waters of the Drake Passage , the journey begins along the majestic Antarctic Peninsula . Along the way, you can observe natural wonders such as the South Georgia Islands . The tour includes visits to several bays , but always with the feeling of being in a place completely removed from civilization .

" I've never had such a remote feeling, because I've been to remote places, but there's always some trace of human settlement . There's a lighthouse , a base . Here we saw some non-permanent Argentine bases , which are small, but there were many times when you didn't see anything human, nothing, not a ship , a house , light , nothing ."

Kayaking among the Antarctic ice is an unforgettable experience, but also challenging. Icebergs , which often appear small on the surface, conceal enormous underwater structures that can block movement. At one point, the sound of blasting and the movement of the ice sparked fear: a nearby calving event could pose a real risk .

These kinds of situations serve as a reminder that, while travel may include first-class comforts , it also presents a challenge to confront such a powerful and ever-changing natural environment . Every moment is a reminder of human fragility in the face of these extreme landscapes .

" I think the perfect thing would have been to arrive at a base and take a plane to Punta Arenas , because the 36-hour return trip, when you've already spent eight or nine days in hotels , feels worthwhile. The last leg departs around six in the evening , and you have all that night , all the following morning , and you arrive in Puerto Williams in the afternoon ."

Antarctica, between globalization and geopolitics

For those who have had the privilege of setting foot in this remote corner of the planet, the feeling of being part of something unprecedented is incomparable. Although many people have visited Antarctica , that intimate connection with the unknown remains profoundly personal.

" I have always felt a special emotion when I believe I am the first human being to set foot in unknown territory ."

In a globalized world, where social media and technology have homogenized cultures and experiences, finding places as pristine as Antarctica feels like a necessary respite .

" The impact of cultural massification , driven by platforms like Instagram and YouTube , has caused destinations to lose some of their authenticity . Bangkok , for example, can feel universal until you venture far enough in to find a small temple hidden among skyscrapers . In contrast, Antarctica remains untouched, a place where nature dictates the rules ."

Antarctica is a unique example of international collaboration . In a world marked by geopolitical tensions , it is fascinating that all the countries of the planet agree to protect this territory. This should inspire us to extend that cooperation to other areas of the world. However, climate change shows us how fragile this balance is.

" An example is what's happening in Greenland : climate change is causing ice melt , and this melting has created new shipping routes that didn't exist before, were unthinkable. And what happened there? Why is the United States interested? Why is China involved? This is in Denmark 's hands. Now it's not only possible to navigate, but there's also the possibility of exploiting gas fields and mines . It's become geopolitically interesting ."

" Things happen in the soul "

" Travel is about deep emotions , connecting with yourself, and the only way to achieve that is through silence . I don't know any other way to do it, because there's so much noise , information overload, and commotion ; everywhere you go there are people , people everywhere. Plus, there's that anxiety of constantly sharing on social media ."

Without a doubt, the fact that it's remote , silent , majestic , makes you bang your head against the wall and say, 'I am nothing and I control nothing.' Things happen in the soul …

Seven days of pure ice in Antarctica … Sure, you can see it that way, but you'd have to be made of pure ice not to be moved. It's a trip I'll never repeat: It's something you have to do at least once in your life .

I felt so privileged to be able to go at the end of winter , when everything was white , white , white . The columns , the shapes of the icebergs … It looked like a sculpture park . It was as if the best artists in the world had carved them, some with perforations , with shapes open to interpretation . And that, with the clouds , with the blue sky . It was perfect .

Today, travel has become mass tourism . At some point, Antarctica will become mass tourism , we can be sure of that. But not at the moment. I believe that's the privilege of the ' momentum ' I've been given, and I know how to value it ."

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